If everything has gone well, you should have a roll of perfectly exposed negatives.The two most common problems beginner film developers are likely to encounter are negatives being âtoo thin,â or transparent, often caused by underexposure or underdevelopment; or negatives being âtoo denseâ or dark, often caused by overexposure or overdevelopment.As an optional final step, you can rinse the negatives with Photo-Flo, a film cleaner designed specifically to reduce drying and water marks on the dried-out film.Take your film clips and attach one to both ends of the film, to ensure that the film doesnât curl as it dries.
The results were exactly what I would have hoped for!Before I dumped out all the cross-processing chemicals, I knew I needed to get one final hurrah out of them by using them to develop some film soup.Film soup is a process of soaking a roll of film in materials, such as dish soap or lemon juice, before developing to create color shifts and artifacts on your film.If you want more details about film soup, check out this I soaked my film in water that had been brought to a boil, along with some freshly-squeezed lemon juice (only the finest for my film), and Rockin’ Green laundry detergent (My plan was to let it dry for a couple weeks but HOW DOES ONE WAIT A COUPLE OF WEEKS? When the timer finishes just dump the last tankful of water and turn off the tap.The Stabiliser is the most relaxed of the chemicals. In January of 2017, I took the plunge into developing my own black and white film at home (you can read about developing your own black and white film here). The developing ingredient is a paraphenylene diamine -based chemical known as CD-4.
Keep doing this filling and emptying with a lot of motion until the Rinse timer goes off. If you can keep them airtight, cool and dark they will last longer than your nerve to keep using them! It needs to be close to head height because a 36 exposure roll of 35mm film is pretty long.Here’s an action shot taken during an actual processing run. If itâs too warm, youâll need to cool the solution down. I also have two beakers that I found I didn’t need but they come in handy for holding the thermometers and funnel.C-41 chemistry is very temperature sensitive. Pour cold or lukewarm water from the tap into the agitator/hole in the tank and fill it to the brim. It may be all kinds of crazy colours so don’t be alarmed! Too much chemistry in the tank won’t hurt but too little will leave some of your film undeveloped so don’t waste time measuring, just make it close to full.Put on the top rubber lid and work the seal around the edge, rotating the tank as you do. Here is the checklist:Run the taps on your sink and adjust until the water running out of the tap is 39 degrees C or 40.
In this article, weâll mostly be exploring the black and white process. You got me dev’ing B&W at home, now I’m excited to try C41. The later stages of Blix and Stabilise are not as critical. [1] X Research source To ensure the containers are airtight, buy three chemical containers or 3 one-gallon glass jugs. The Blix bottle has my funnel in it because I will be pouring back into it when the timer goes off.First step needs to be done IN THE DARK. Of this the most important stage is the Development stage. Slosh it around as it is filling. For developing, youâll need to use only a certain amount of solution, which your developing tank will usually specify. How to Process C-41 Color Negative Film at Home, From Start to Finish.